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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.